NHCAD

The masthead sheaves (pulleys at top of mast) were swollen and would not turn. I drilled out the rivets holding the the cast aluminum forms, and then ground off the ends of the pins that the pulleys spun on. A good whack with a hammer and punch was required to finish the job.

The new sheaves are plastic and I used new 1/4" clevis pins with spiral cotter rings to secure. I also used aluminum pop rivets to secure the cast pieces back onto the masthead.

The screw holes for the sidestay chainplate were pulling out (streched oblong) so I thought a backing plate was a good idea. I repaired the holes using epoxy and sanded them smooth. After painting, I redrilled the holes and added a backing plate.

DR Marine sells backing plates for the Javelin, $10 ea plus shipping last time I checked. I used a backing plate from a 1/4"x2"x3-1/2" Stainless Steel U-Bolt (Home Depot $2.50 ea). The 2" between centers was enough to work on the Javelin. It seemed a waste of a good u-bolt but the cost of me wittling a piece of stainless would far exceed $2.50 ea. Plus you get a pair of 1/4-20 SS nuts, so not a bad deal in the end.

A good neighbor donated a pair of jib sheet cleats so I mounted them to a stained & varnished piece of maple in the middle of the boat. I used aluminum brackets to mount them with stainless 1/4-20 screws. I like the look of this and I will consider putting a strip of wood down the whole length, so I can also mount the main sheet block & cleat.

I orderd the final missing piece... rub rail from DR Marine. I also needed the 'under rail' which the rub rail snaps over. Easy enough to install.

I talked to Rudy (DR Marine) on the phone and he was helpful with advice.

Javelin Rub Rail - $95
Javelin Under Rail (10) 4ft pieces - $6.60 ea (I only needed 8)
Shipping & Handling = $13.02
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Total Rub Rail Cost w/ shipping = $174.02 (ouch)

These are surplus pieces after finishing all the rub rail. Close to 11' left over of each.

Below is a picture of the under rail going on with aluminum rivets. The V's allow the under rail to make the curve without buckling. You'll notice some square notches as well, where some of the original staples stuck high or low. Relieving the staples helped the under rail go on (it's not very flexible) and helped give a smooth line for the rub rail. The spots on the deck are rain drops, I had to roll back into the garage to finish the rub rail project.

The other tid-bit of advice from Rudy was to relieve the rub rail at the bow by cutting a notch. I used tin snips to cut that too. Do your best to eyeball the angle and sketch it with a pencil. Haste will make waste here, as the cut is in the middle of the rub rail so any salvage effort wouldn't look half as nice at this point.

So here is the finished product. First time out, you can see a big yellow patch on the sail from a previous owner. It will have to do for now.